The usual kitchen remodeling sequence is demolition and rough-ins, wall repair and primer, main wall paint, cabinets, countertops, flooring when it is a floating product, then trim and final touch-ups. For tile, glued-down flooring, and some nail-down hardwood, install the floor before the cabinets so the cabinets sit on the finished surface. Always follow the flooring manufacturer’s instructions, because floating floors generally need room to expand and should not be locked in place by cabinets or islands.
The Best Order Depends on the Flooring Type
There is no single cabinet-and-flooring sequence that works for every kitchen. The key question is whether the floor is fixed to the subfloor or floats above it.
- Floating floors: Cabinets are typically installed first, and the flooring is installed around them. The floor needs to expand and contract without being pinned beneath the cabinets.
- Tile: Tile can often be installed before cabinets, allowing cabinets to sit on the finished floor. Some projects place cabinets first and tile around them, but the layout, tile height, and installer’s method must be planned together.
- Glued-down flooring: It can often extend under cabinets because it is bonded to the subfloor, but the adhesive, substrate, and product instructions still control.
- Nail-down or staple-down hardwood: It may be installed under cabinets, although some installers stop it at the cabinet footprint to reduce material and labor. The choice should account for future cabinet changes and finished-floor height.
Because the wrong sequence can restrict a floating floor or create a height problem at appliances, decide the floor method before cabinet installation begins.
A Recommended Kitchen Remodel Sequence
A typical project follows this order:
- Finalize the design. Confirm cabinet dimensions, appliance locations, island size, flooring type, finished-floor height, backsplash, lighting, and plumbing fixtures.
- Protect adjacent areas. Isolate the work zone and protect floors or surfaces that will remain.
- Demolish the existing kitchen. Remove cabinets, appliances, flooring, and wall finishes as needed. Confirm that utilities are safely disconnected before demolition.
- Inspect and repair the structure. Address water damage, subfloor problems, uneven framing, or damaged drywall before covering the work.
- Complete rough plumbing, electrical, and mechanical work. Rough-ins include concealed work that must be finished before walls and cabinets block access.
- Prepare the walls and ceiling. Install or repair drywall, tape and finish joints, sand, and clean dust from the room.
- Prime and apply the main wall paint coats. Painting before cabinets reduces cutting-in around new boxes and protects finished cabinetry from unnecessary splatter.
- Install the flooring or cabinets according to the floor type. Fixed flooring commonly precedes cabinets. Floating flooring commonly follows cabinet installation.
- Install cabinets and cabinet fillers. Set base cabinets level, secure them as required by the installation method, and verify appliance openings.
- Install countertops, backsplash, trim, and appliances. Countertop templates and fabrication usually require accurately installed cabinets.
- Complete final paint and finish work. Touch up walls, install baseboard and toe-kick materials, caulk appropriate joints, and correct installation marks.
This sequence can change when a contractor uses a different trade workflow or when the flooring manufacturer requires a specific installation method. The project plan should document those exceptions before work starts.
When Flooring Should Go Under the Cabinets
Installing flooring across the kitchen before cabinets can create a continuous finished surface and simplify later cabinet changes. It is commonly considered for tile, glued-down resilient flooring, and some nail-down wood floors.
This approach is useful when:
- The flooring is securely fixed to the subfloor and does not require perimeter movement in the same way as a floating floor.
- The finished floor height must continue beneath appliances or future cabinet locations.
- The homeowner wants flexibility to change cabinet footprints later without exposing unfinished subfloor.
- The floor installer needs an unobstructed area for layout, cuts, or leveling.
Installing flooring first does not eliminate the need to plan for cabinet support. Heavy cabinets should bear on a properly prepared, level surface, and the installer should confirm that the subfloor and finished flooring can accept the load. For tile, the substrate and tile assembly also need to be flat enough for cabinet installation and appliance clearances.
One drawback is cost. Flooring under cabinets may use more material and labor, especially when the cabinet footprint would otherwise hide a large area. It can still be worthwhile if it avoids future patching or makes the floor layout cleaner.
When a Floating Floor Should Stop at the Cabinets
A floating floor is not mechanically fastened or fully bonded to the subfloor. Its boards or planks can move as temperature and humidity change. Fixed cabinets, islands, and other heavy built-ins can prevent that movement and create buckling, gapping, separated joints, or visible distortion.
For that reason, the common approach is to install the cabinets on the subfloor or on a suitable fixed base, then install the floating floor around the cabinet footprint. The flooring should receive the movement space required by its manufacturer, usually at concealed edges where trim or toe-kick material can cover the gap. Do not rely on a generic gap size when the product instructions specify a different requirement.
Pay particular attention to:
- Kitchen islands: An island is a fixed weight, so the flooring plan should be resolved before the island is anchored.
- Appliances: The floor height must allow the dishwasher, range, and refrigerator to slide into their openings and be removed for service.
- Transitions: Flooring that ends at cabinet sides may need a planned transition to adjacent rooms.
- Toe kicks: Toe-kick boards should cover the required edge gap without pinning the floor tightly.
- Subfloor preparation: The exposed subfloor must still be smooth, dry, sound, and appropriately level for cabinet installation.
Some floating products have special installation rules, and some manufacturers may allow limited placement under certain built-ins. The product installation guide, not a general rule of thumb, controls.
Cabinet Installation Order and Floor Height
Cabinet installation starts after the room is ready and the installer knows the finished-floor height. Base cabinets are set level along a reference line, then secured and joined according to the cabinet system. Wall cabinets may be installed before or after base cabinets depending on the installer’s method, but appliance openings and finished elevations must remain consistent.
Floor height matters because it affects:
- Countertop height and the relationship between counters and nearby windows or outlets.
- Dishwasher clearance beneath the countertop.
- Range and cooktop alignment.
- Refrigerator and pantry openings.
- Toe-kick depth and the appearance of cabinet sides.
- Transitions to hallways, dining areas, and existing floors.
Before cabinets are ordered or set, confirm the actual floor assembly, not just the nominal product thickness. Underlayment, mortar, backer board, adhesive, leveling compound, and transition strips can all change the final elevation.
If cabinets are installed before a floating floor, leave enough clearance for the flooring, underlayment if used, and any required movement space. If the floor is installed first, the cabinet installer should protect it from scratches and verify that the surface is flat enough for accurate leveling.
Where Wall Paint Fits in the Sequence
Wall paint is usually applied after drywall repairs and before cabinet installation. The main coats can be completed more quickly while the walls are open, and the painter can cover broad areas without working around cabinet boxes.
Painting before cabinets does not mean the entire paint job is finished. Plan for a final paint stage after:
- Cabinet installation and filler strips.
- Countertop and backsplash work.
- Baseboard, casing, and other trim installation.
- Appliance delivery and any required wall repairs.
Use primer where new drywall, joint compound, stains, or repaired areas require it. The paint sheen and product should be compatible with the kitchen’s cleaning and moisture conditions, but the specific product selection belongs to the homeowner, designer, or paint professional.
Protect cabinets and flooring during the final coat. Cut lines at cabinet sides, backsplash edges, and trim should be completed only after those surfaces are firmly installed and ready to receive paint or caulk.
Planning the Floor, Cabinet, and Appliance Interface
Many sequence problems appear at appliances rather than in the open floor area. Before installation, create a written finish-height plan showing the subfloor, underlayment, flooring, cabinet base, countertop, and appliance openings.
| Situation | Common sequence | Main planning concern |
|---|---|---|
| Floating plank or laminate floor | Cabinets and fixed island, then flooring around them | Allow manufacturer-required movement space and maintain appliance clearance. |
| Tile floor | Often tile first, then cabinets | Coordinate substrate thickness, finished elevation, grout layout, and cabinet leveling. |
| Glued-down resilient floor | Often flooring first | Verify adhesive, subfloor, curing, and protection requirements. |
| Nail-down or staple-down wood | Either method may be used | Balance material use, future cabinet changes, floor fastening, and finished height. |
Do not install flooring around cabinets before confirming that the cabinets are in their final positions. Moving a cabinet later can expose unfinished subfloor, interrupt the movement gap, or leave a visible flooring patch.
Practical Checklist Before Work Starts
- Identify whether the floor is floating, glued down, nailed down, stapled down, or set in mortar.
- Read the current flooring installation instructions and record movement-gap requirements.
- Confirm whether the island and cabinets will be anchored to the subfloor or another fixed surface.
- Measure the complete finished-floor assembly at the dishwasher and range openings.
- Confirm cabinet, filler, toe-kick, and appliance dimensions before ordering materials.
- Complete concealed plumbing, electrical, and other rough-ins before closing walls.
- Repair, sand, prime, and paint the walls before cabinet delivery when practical.
- Set a protection plan for finished floors, cabinets, counters, and appliances.
- Decide where flooring transitions will occur before the floor is cut.
- Have the cabinet installer and flooring installer agree on the interface before either trade begins.
If the project involves a manufacturer warranty, unusual flooring, heated floors, built-in furniture, or a large island, obtain written installation guidance from the relevant manufacturer or qualified installer.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I paint before or after installing kitchen cabinets?
Apply the main wall paint coats after drywall preparation and before cabinets when practical. Complete final touch-ups after cabinets, backsplash, trim, and appliances are installed. This gives the painter open wall access while reserving the last coat for installation damage and final cut lines.
Can cabinets sit on a floating floor?
They generally should not be installed on top of a floating floor because their weight can restrict floor movement. Install fixed cabinets and islands first, then install the floating floor around them unless the flooring manufacturer provides different instructions.
Is it better to tile the kitchen floor before installing cabinets?
Often, yes. Tile is a fixed floor assembly, so installing it first can provide a continuous finished surface and simplify appliance height planning. However, cabinets can also be installed before tile in some projects. The installer must coordinate tile thickness, cabinet leveling, and appliance clearances.
Should hardwood flooring run under kitchen cabinets?
It may, particularly when the wood is nailed down, stapled down, or glued according to the product requirements. Some installers stop the flooring at the cabinet footprint to reduce cost and waste. Decide based on the installation method, finished height, future cabinet flexibility, and the flooring manufacturer’s instructions.
What is the biggest mistake when sequencing cabinets and flooring?
The most common mistake is treating every floor as if it behaves like tile. A floating floor can be damaged when fixed cabinets or an island pin it in place. Another frequent problem is failing to account for the complete floor thickness, which can prevent appliances from fitting beneath the countertop.